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Hot start, arc force and anti-stick are 3 automatic current controls on inverter stick welders: hot start adds a short burst of amps to strike the arc, arc force adds amps when the arc gets too short, and anti-stick cuts the current when the rod freezes to the work. Together they make stick welding easier to start and harder to stall.
Lincoln Electric describes hot start as a temporary current boost of about 0.5 seconds at the start of a weld. Arc force and anti-stick work for the rest of the bead. Old AC transformer welders have none of these, so a modern inverter feels much easier for a beginner.
Hot Start, Arc Force and Anti-Stick at a Glance
| Feature | When it works | What it does | What you notice | Other names |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hot start | First fraction of a second | Raises current above your set amps | Arc lights on the first strike, less rod sticking at the start | Arc start, start boost |
| Arc force | During the weld, when the arc gets short | Raises current as arc voltage drops | Arc keeps burning with a tight arc, more dig | Dig, DIG, arc control |
| Anti-stick | When the rod shorts and freezes | Drops the output current to a very low level | Rod snaps free without glowing red | Anti-sticking |
Why Stick Welders Need These Controls
A stick welder is a constant current machine. You set the amps, and the arc voltage rises and falls with arc length. A cold rod at the start needs extra heat to light, and a short arc in the middle of a bead drops the voltage until the arc can die.
Inverter welders monitor the arc voltage the whole time you weld. When they see a cold start, a short arc or a dead short, they change the current for you. That is all hot start, arc force and anti-stick are: 3 rules for what the machine does at those moments.
What Is Hot Start on a Welder?
Hot start is a short boost in amps the instant you strike the arc. Lincoln lists it as a temporary increase in output current for about 0.5 seconds. The extra heat warms the rod tip and the base metal so the arc lights and holds on the first try.
Without it, a cold 7018 rod often sticks on the first touch, or the bead starts as a cold, lumpy blob with poor fusion. Hot start fixes both. Machines handle it in 2 ways:
- Automatic: the machine sets the boost from your amperage. Everlast says its PowerArc 200 uses this approach.
- Adjustable: a knob or menu sets how strong the boost is, and some machines also set how long it lasts. Everlast’s PowerArc 300 has hot start intensity and time controls.
How to Set Hot Start
- Start with the factory default or the middle of the range.
- Raise it if the rod sticks on the strike or the first inch of bead looks cold and tall.
- Lower it if the start burns a hole in thin steel or leaves a crater bigger than the rest of the bead.
- Run it higher for 7018, which is harder to start than 6011 or 6013.
What Is Arc Force on a Stick Welder?
Arc force raises the current when the arc gets too short, so the rod keeps burning instead of sticking. Lincoln calls it a temporary increase in output current during welding when the arc is too short. Everlast says the machine senses the voltage drop and makes up for it with more amps.
The setting controls how hard the machine pushes back. Low arc force gives a soft, smooth arc with less spatter. High arc force gives a crisp, digging arc with more penetration and more spatter. Lincoln recommends the minimum for a smooth arc on rutile (6013) and basic (7018) rods, and the maximum for a crisper arc with more penetration.
Miller Dynamic DIG: A Real Example
Miller splits the job into 2 settings on machines with Dynamic DIG. Arc control runs from soft (-1 to -25) to stiff (1 to 25) and sets how strongly the current reacts to arc length. DIG range sets how many extra amps the machine can add to clear a short.
Miller’s example: with a 125 amp preset and a 100 amp DIG range, current can climb to 225 amps to clear a short. Its defaults are 100 amps (range 0 to 200) for the XX10 process used on downhill pipe and 50 amps (range 0 to 100) for the XX18 process used on structural steel. Miller says the factory settings work well for most jobs.
Arc Force Settings by Rod Type
| Rod | Arc force starting point | Why |
|---|---|---|
| 6010 / 6011 | High | Lets you push the rod into a tight root without sticking; matches the digging arc these rods are made for |
| 6013 | Low | Soft, smooth arc for thin sheet and neat beads |
| 7018 | Low to medium | Smooth arc and less spatter; raise it if the rod stalls on a tight arc |
| Thin sheet (any rod) | Low | Extra amps in a short arc can blow through thin steel |
| Vertical and overhead | Medium to high | A stiffer arc helps hold a short arc out of position |
Set amps for the rod size first, then fine tune arc force. Miller says the same thing for its machines: set the correct amperage for the electrode before you adjust arc control or DIG range.
What Is Anti-Stick on a Welder?
Anti-stick cuts the welding current when the rod freezes to the work. Lincoln describes it as a device that minimizes the short circuit current when the electrode sticks. UNIMIG says that when the machine detects sticking, the current shuts off so you can free the rod.
Without anti-stick, a stuck rod carries full current. It glows red, the flux coating cracks and falls off, and the rod is ruined. Lincoln also calls anti-stick a safety device, because it protects the electrode holder and cable from a dead short.
Anti-stick is usually always on and has no knob. When a rod sticks, bend it side to side to snap it free, or open the stinger. If your rod sticks often, the cause is usually low amps or too short an arc. A rod that won’t light at all is a different problem, and a stick welder not arcing usually traces back to the ground clamp, a damp rod or the input power.
How Hot Start, Arc Force and Anti-Stick Work Together
Each control covers a different moment in the same weld. Here is one 7018 bead from strike to stop:
- Strike: hot start adds amps for about half a second, and the arc lights.
- Weld: you hold a short arc. When it gets too tight, arc force adds amps and the arc keeps going.
- Mistake: you dip the rod into the puddle and it freezes. Anti-stick drops the current, and the rod snaps free without overheating.
- Restart: you strike again, and hot start helps the new start fuse into the old crater.
Do All Stick Welders Have These Features?
No. Many inverter stick welders sold today list hot start, arc force and anti-stick on the spec sheet, from budget 120V/240V machines to pro units from Lincoln, Miller, ESAB and Everlast. Some have fixed settings. Better machines let you adjust hot start and arc force.
Old AC transformer welders, such as the Lincoln AC-225, have only an amperage selector. You get the same results there by technique: scratch the rod to start, keep a steady arc length, and set amps a little higher to avoid sticking.
Common Mistakes With These Settings
- Maxing arc force on thin metal: the extra amps in a short arc blow holes. Keep it low under 1/8 inch.
- Using arc force instead of amps: a rod that sticks on every bead usually needs more amps first.
- Hot start too high on sheet metal: it burns through at the start of every bead.
- Blaming anti-stick for a weak arc: anti-stick only works on a dead short. A weak, wandering arc points to amps, arc length or a bad ground clamp.
- Changing all 3 at once: change one setting, run a test bead on scrap, then change the next.
Safety Note
Hot start and arc force raise the current for short moments, so the arc gets brighter and spatter flies farther. Wear an ANSI Z87.1 helmet at the right shade, dry leather gloves and flame-resistant clothing. Remember that the stinger is live whenever the machine is on, even with anti-stick. Never change rods with wet gloves, and follow OSHA 1910.252 for fire watch and ventilation.
Frequently Asked Questions
What Should Arc Force Be Set at for 7018?
Start low to medium for 7018. Lincoln recommends minimum arc force for a smooth arc on basic rods like 7018, and Miller’s default DIG range for the XX18 process is 50 amps. Raise it if the rod stalls when you hold a tight arc out of position.
Is Arc Force the Same as Dig?
Yes. Arc force, dig and arc control are different brand names for the same idea: extra current when the arc gets short. Miller splits it into 2 settings, arc control and DIG range. Most other machines use a single arc force knob that runs from soft to crisp.
Should I Turn Hot Start Off?
Rarely. Keep hot start on for most stick work, because it gives cleaner starts with better fusion. Turn it down or off for very thin sheet metal, where the burst of amps can burn through. Lift TIG mode on combo machines usually has its own start settings.
Why Does My Rod Still Stick With Anti-Stick?
Anti-stick doesn’t stop sticking. It only cuts the current after the rod freezes, so the rod doesn’t overheat. Frequent sticking means the amps are too low, the arc is too short, or the rod is damp. Raise the amps a little, hold a slightly longer arc, and store rods dry.
Does Arc Force Matter for Lift TIG?
No. Arc force, hot start and anti-stick are stick welding (SMAW) controls. On combo stick and lift TIG machines, these settings only work in stick mode. TIG uses its own start controls, such as lift arc or high frequency start, plus upslope and downslope settings on machines that have them.
Final Words
Hot start, arc force and anti-stick each handle one moment of a stick weld. Hot start lights the arc, arc force keeps a short arc alive, and anti-stick saves a frozen rod. All 3 change the current for you, so you can focus on rod angle, arc length and travel speed.
Set the amps for your rod first. Then leave hot start and arc force at the factory defaults, run a test bead, and change one setting at a time. For 6010 and 6011 roots, turn arc force up. For 6013 on thin steel, turn it down.
